Travelling the Tibetan and Mongolian Borders in 1923 - Part 5 Gansu

Day 136 December 1^st, 1923 Sotsong Gomba to Ta Wu (near Sha Mi) - 17¾ miles

They started out from Sotsang Gomba (Soxung Lamasery) about 8.30 and followed the course of the Yellow River (Huang He) for several miles. There were numerous sharp bends in the Yellow River to the southwest of Sotsong Gomba, but after the White River joined it, the river for the next 5 miles did not take such a sinuous course.  After a succession of big bends the River slowly separated from the road and went off more to the N.W. while their road went about due North.

“There is a great expanse of grass country on both sides of the river, with camps and mud-walled villages for cattle. Each house has an enclosure made of sods of turf. The roofs are flat, and many have the roof piled up with dried grass - a kind of coarse hay, evidently for winter fodder”.

“The entrance to the enclosures has 2 mud plastered pillars with holes into which horizontal poles are thrust to keep the cattle enclosed, Prayer flags can be seen flying from a pole on some of the houses. If the village is large there is generally one square house plastered red, with a pyramid roof.  Prayer flag poles at each corner and streamers connecting them, proclaim the fact that this is the residence of the village lama”.

At.5.10 they arrived at Ta Wu (a village near the Sha Mi Lamasery), hidden away among low Hills and which they came upon immediately after passing through a narrow gap.

“Ta Wu is a village of perhaps 100 houses - a most wonderful sight. It is getting dusk and the cattle are arriving home. Thousands of sheep and yak, all apparently mixed up and going in various directions. Golok horsemen and women shouting and yelling - dozens of dogs barking.  Apparently undirectable confusion and yet the cattle all know their own places, and the drivers their own cattle”.

Passing Ta Wu they travelled on for 15 minutes, crossing another gap in the hills and entering another small valley, at the far side of which was the Sha Mi lamasery.

“After 20 minutes we arrived. Again, there was no place to stay. The wool merchant had a most awful hole which he is allowed to use, in one of the lamasery houses, and here we rigged up a table and prepared to spend the night. However, one of the lamas took pity and cleared a little room for me to use, so here we are fixed up”.

“They say we cannot get transport till the day after tomorrow, so we shall have a quiet Sunday. They also say that no foreigners have ever been here before, so I am a great curiosity!”

Day 137 Sunday December 2^nd, 1923 Staying at Sha Mi Gomba

“I asked Ah Hong, a wool merchant, what he would charge to take me through to Taochow, so as to save us a delay from changing transport again at the ½ way place, and also to provide us with a reliable man who knows the danger afoot on this last stage of our journey in the unprotected wilds - nominally Chinese - but really under no control”. 

“At first, he said he could not undertake it but then he arranged with his local partner about his wool and promised to let us have his yak and 1 pony at 90 cents per day per head. The price was higher than we have been paying (75 cents) but I have closed with him, and have arranged that in places where the road is bad he will pick us 3 or 4 local men with their biped guns to accompany us - so that we shall have more protection. It really would be too bad to be robbed on this last section of dangerous road - for after Taochow they say it is quite peaceful”.

“Ah Hong’s view was that “here everyone is a potential robber if they are stronger than you are. If you are stronger, then you pass in peace”.

“It is Sunday, and I hoped for a restful time, but I have had a most trying time from the curiosity of the lamas and youngsters in the lamasery. The window and door of my room besieged - a small door into the next room also full; of people - no getting away, all jabbering and talking - wanting to feel my clothes and examine my things. It was difficult to be patient as it went on hour after hour – I can sympathise now with a caged animal at the zoo. At last I shut the door and window, but even then, the window was forced, and curious eyes were at every crack and chink. As a last resort, I barricaded the window, fastened the door and lit a candle, and now I am writing this by candle-light, though the sun is shining brightly outside”.

HGT recalled in his journal:

“I am beginning to realise what the early missionaries went through day after day. The only thing is that if one stayed here - after a week or so - the people would get used to the foreigner and his strange ways”.

Lunch is over - and I have had a great crowd to see the wild beast feed!”

“If all goes well, this time next week we ought to be at Taochow

“I am hungry for letters and news from Yunnan, the last I received was on August 12th.  I plan to stay a day at Taochow and then get to Lanchow by December 19th.  I think I will then stay at Lanchow for a few days to arrange with Mr. Andrews to look after some of GP’s things which he thought would probably best to leave there, as the cost of transporting them to Shanghai would be more than they were worth”.

Day 138 December 3^rd, 1923                       Sha Mi Gomba to Raa Gomba - 18½ miles

HGT was thankful to get away from Sha Mi. They left at 7.14 in the morning.

“I have had no peace from inquisitive intruders. Even at night time they were trying the door and window of my room”.

It was level going all day - mostly through a great grass plateau.  The day had been beautifully warm in the sun, but as soon as the sun set it became very cold. By the time they reached Raa Gomba. which stood on the Black river, the river was frozen over, and they crossed over on the ice. 

“As we passed the lamas were all out on the hill side having some kind of ceremony - walking in procession with trumpets, etc.  The Tibetan boy said it was the usual practice to keep away sickness.

There had been nothing much of interest on the road, which seemed quite peaceful. They camped about 1½ miles beyond Raa Gomba (10,699 ft.) which was marked on their map.

Day 139 December 4^th, 1923                    Raa Gomba to Konserh Nien Ba (Lamasery) - 20½ miles

They were now only 5 days from Taochow - The morning was spent travelling 30^o east of north, crossing a plateau of grassland about 11 miles wide which sent its waters westward by the Tan Chu into the Heh Ho (Black River) which in turn ran into the Yellow River. 

“A small tributary, the Tan Chu,  delayed us for about 15 minutes as it was frozen over in places, and not in others - at last the yak drivers found a place where the ice seemed firm and they ventured across. They tried a pony and finally the yak. One by one got safely over, though as they crossed we could hear quiet cracking sounds in the ice”.

"It was a dreary business crossing the plateau, as it consisted of little hummocks of turf with hollows in between. In summer these fill up with water and the plateau would becomes one big marsh which the road has to pass around, but now we are greeted by hard frost".  

"We were able to cross direct to a gap in the hills opposite. The gap is easily recognized by the white rock cliff on the S.E. side with a huge rocky crag that resembles a lion’s head.  I have given it the name of the Lion Hook. On getting close to it there is a very marked likeness to a woman's face, but I think the name Lion Hook suits it best.  It is visible from any part of the plateau, and so a splendid landmark.

They were now crossing a watershed area where there were tributaries that flowed westward into the Yellow River (Huang He) and one that flowed eastward, the Peh Hsui Ho, which eventually flowed into the Yangtze River (Jinsha Jiang).

“Passing the gap by the lion Hook there was a decent of about 200 feet and then a drop down into another valley at the end of which, on the hill side, is a lamasery called Konserh Nien Ba (10,144 ft.). The little river at its foot runs into the Peh Hsui Ho, and eventually to the Yangtze, so the “Lion Rock” range of hills is the divide between the Yellow River and the Yangtze”.

To reach old Taochow they had again to cross into the Yellow River watershed, and the divide in this case was the mountain range known as the Min Shan.

“Our Muslim guide (Ah Hong) has gone on ahead to the lamasery to try and arrange for two lamas to accompany us for the next 2 days, as we have to cross the mountains where robbers are bad.  They will not dare to touch a caravan which has a lama giving it his protection.  After the next 2 days the road is apparently safe into Taochow - where our troubles in this respect will, I hope, end”.

Day 140 December 5^th, 1923                      Kanserh Nien Ba to camp at Shan Ken     - 20 miles

“Today has been a series of valleys and small passes through the mountain. - very weird and solitary.  We did not meet anybody all day.  We had asked the lamasery at Kan Serh to send some lamas with us and they provided 4. They are very quaint in their red jackets, edged and lined with fur - fur caps and a fur lined skirt which makes them look rather like old women.  They are very much at home on the saddle and very pleasant - although it is sometimes difficult to make them understand, but signs go a long way. They are very attracted by my gloves and yellow spectacles”.

“Our lama escorts have guided us through the Min Shan mountains, where there are rocks of most fantastic shapes, before setting up camp (10,190 ft.) in a secluded valley when we were ⅔ of the way through the mountain range.  We aim to strike camp at 3 a.m. so as to cross the last pass before daylight as this would be the last place where we would be likely to meet robbers”.

Day 141 December 6^th, 1923                      Shan Ken to Cherhba Ku river camp - 16⅓ miles

They had a trying night camped in the Min Shan Range.

“The lamas told me there was one more dangerous pass to cross and then we ought to be all right. They and the yak drivers kept watch all night in case of a surprise attack.  They kept me awake most of the night by sitting round the tents, howling to each other and letting out wild yells, so as to inform possible visitors that were on the alert.  At 2 a.m. we were all roused (I had managed to get about 1½ hours sleep - fully dressed) and at 3 a.m. I had some tea, bread and jam for breakfast. Camp was then broken by the light of the camp fire and the yak were loaded up. Then we waited, and I read my Daily light”.

“At 4.45 there was a glimmer of light in the East and at 4.50 a sickle shaped moon gave just enough light to be able to distinguish the road, and we crept up to the top of the pass as silently as possible.  The pass called Hohkeh La has three crests; it is 12,300 feet high”. 

“We crossed the 1st ridge just as daylight was beginning, then the second and third ridge, by which time it was 10 minutes to 6, and although full daylight, the sun had not yet appeared. It was most weird - for between the 2nd and 3rd ridges there was a great amphitheatre of hills. The last ridge was crossed safely and we began a steady descent from 12,300 ft down to just over 10,000 ft.”

“The lamas did not behave as well as we had hoped. They began by asking for some rice, then some flour, then for a tin box, etc,. as extra payment though they are being paid well.  They were only due to stay with us for half the day, and just before the spot they were to leave, they went on ahead scouting. One came back saying there were signs of robbers.  The guns were got ready and the Tibetan boy and the Mafu went on 50 yards ahead with orders not to fire unless absolutely necessary”.

“Just at this junction one of the yak got excited and tipped off its load.  However three of us got to work and loaded him up again. Then those in front signalled "All clear", and we went ahead.  I really think it was a ruse of the lamas to get something extra, for 5 minutes later they turned back.  At our parting I presented the four lamas with two empty biscuit tins, and they went back delighted with their present.

“Shortly after this, proceeding cautiously, we passed through a narrow defile, the entrance guarded by two limestone cliffs, and called Shik mén (Shik Gateway). It seemed just the place for robbers, and we entered the ravine silently”. 

“Two-thirds of the way through we heard a weird call, which made us think we were in for it.  Strange to say, it was a yak train of about 50 animals loaded with Tsampa, and they were the only people they met all day. It was extraordinary meeting them in the ravine. They reported that the road was all quiet and so tonight we are all hoping to have a good sleep. - Good night.”

They hurried on down eventually reaching a place and time to camp at the Cheh-Ba-Ku river (10,008 ft.), where they saw a few other people, a man, a boy and 4 animals in the distance.

Day 142 December 7^th, 1923            Cherhba Ku to Gamba Sz (or Gomba) camp - 10 miles

A quiet night or rest and sleep - followed by a quiet day following the Cherh Ba Ku River. Just after starting they came to a place where 4 small mountain rivers entered the main river within ¼ of a mile. Evidently this was remarkable to the Tibetans for dozens of prayer flags on the hill side marked the spot.

“After travelling about 1 hour we met another big caravan -.several hundred yak - travelling in batches of 10 or 20 - going south. We enquired of them, and they of us, about the road, and all is reported quite peaceable - so we proceeded with very contented minds.  Nearly all the yak drivers in the big caravan carried a gun with the two-pronged rest attached.

“We are now camped just opposite a big lamasery - Gamba Gomba - the buildings are very pretty with terra cotta coloured or white walls - with blue decorations. The whole place looks clean and fresh (at a distance). I had hoped we might stay at the lamasery, but our yak driver knows nobody there, and is doubtful about the reception, so here we are under canvas (8,958 ft.).

Later HGT wrote in his journal:

“I fear we cannot reach Taochow tomorrow, as the yak are evidently needing a rest, and there is very little grass for them along the road. However we ought to get in early on Sunday morning - and then for news, and I hope letters!! "

"We have opened our last tin of milk tonight, which I was keeping for emergency, and trust that we can get a tin or two at Taochow to carry us to Lanchow - No eggs or fresh vegetables have been obtainable for about a fortnight - I have been living mostly on mutton and potatoes, potatoes and mutton - for we bought a sheep 10 days ago and it is still going strong. Potatoes we bought from Suching. Tomorrow will probably be our last camp then for the comfort of an oven at nights, for the weather is bright in the daytime but bitterly cold in a tent at night.”

Day 143 December 8^th, 1923                  Gamba Gomba to Lao Tai Sz - 17½ miles

They broke camp about 7 a.m. and got away about 8 a.m. Gomba Sz (or Gamba Gomba) was a lamasery with about 600 lamas.

They followed the river for a few miles and then turned off to take a short cut over a pass about 1,000 ft above the river.

“As we travelled we saw 4 women carrying water in great tubs on their backs. They wear a most quaint costume, a big sheep skin coat with an edging of fur and then some coloured material round their sleeves and bottom of the coat. A big silver ring is fastened into the hair above the ear on one side and the hair is generally in long plaits. I took a snapshot and hope it will show the details, though it cannot give the colour”. 

“As we climbed the valley to the pass - in one place was a large prayer wheel  – we stopped to get a photo and 2 lamas passing were very interested in the proceedings – I tried to include them, but they wouldn’t consent”.

Figure 24 A Living Buddah on the road

“Despite longing to get to Taochow, I knew we could not manage it today and so camped at Lao Tai Sz (8,545 ft.).  I reckon we are now only about 27 li away - so ought to get in about midday tomorrow”.

Day 144 Sunday December 9^th, 1923              Lao Tai Sz to Old Tao Chow (Taochowting) - 12 miles

“A short day’s travel, leaving at 8 a.m. and arriving at Taochow  at 12.40.  After descending a short distance the small stream joined the Tao River, and after going along the river bank for a mile or two we crossed at a ford - the yak bravely scrambling on to the ice which bordered each side , and not getting their loads wet”.

“There was plenty of game - pheasant, partridge and wild duck - in this part of our journey. The boy shot a number of pheasant which we took in as a present to the missionaries. After fording the river, our ‘Muslim’ guide Ah Hong and I took the only pony between us and went on ahead, the distance being only about 6 miles.  We entered a narrow valley which led up to a pass about 1000 ft. above the river, and after crossing this we could look down into the Taochow valley and see the outskirts of the city - the main part being hidden by a hill.  It was a grand view.  Ah Hong pointed out the direction to New Taochow and the road leading towards Lanchow.  Then a rapid descent soon brought us to the city of Old Tao Chow (8765 ft.)”.

“The Alliance Mission was just at the side of the main road as you enter from the South, and a Mr. Fersmeyer gave us a hearty welcome. Mr. and Mrs. Fersmeyer (American) and Miss Alquist (Swedish) were the staff; Miss Ferguson the nurse from Lanchow Hospital was over on a visit”.

In his journal HGT wrote:

“It was Sunday morning, so I at once went in for a short time to the Chinese service, there were about 16 men, almost all Tibetans, and some women listening to the preaching. After this service was over there was a Tibetan Service. The men sat tailor fashion round in a circle with a Hoh pan (?) in the centre on a raised platform - while the catechist took a section of the catechism and explained it. Then Mr. Fersmeyer interpreted for me when I said a few words”.

“An hour later the loads arrived. The yak had had practically no food for 3 days, so promptly attacked some straw blocking the basement windows, where the winter supply of cabbage, etc., was stored. Then one made a bee line for a grass plot he spied through a small doorway.  The result was he carried away half the door with him!  However, they were soon unloaded and sent off to get a proper feed”. 

In his journal for the day HGT wrote:

“After a tub and a change, one felt like a new creature”.

“No letters!! They came here a month ago from Lanchow and after having been kept a fortnight, as we did not turn up, were sent back. Alas and alack - I must wait till I reach Lanchow for news. I only hope they have not got tired of waiting for us there and sent them back to Yunnanfu - Awful thought!!  I told Mr. Persmeyer I wanted to get off on Tuesday so he has at once made enquiries about mules. A batch have just arrived so we have fixed up matters - The mules here take 250 katties? and are splendid animals - we shall only need 7 for pack and 3 for riding (1 tael a day per animal)”.

Note: A Kattie or Cattie (or Jin) was a measure of weight approx = 600 grams. So 250 Katties was roughly 150 kilos)

Day 145 December 10^th, 1923 Tao Chow

“I spent the day seeing patients and developing films - with numerous delicious meals in between.

"Miss Algust not well with dysentery - gave her some Hypol (Note: This was an emulsion of Cod Liver oil and Soya bean oil)".

"Miss Ferguson was due to leave the following day for Lanchow via Choni. So we ought to arrive there at about the same time, but by different routes - as I am going via Labrang in order to see the famous monastery”.

Day 146 December 11^th, 1923                 Tao Chow to Mei Wu Chao Sz    - 52 miles

“We left Old Taochow at 7.6 a.m. after having received the greatest kindness, with 7 loaves of bread and food enough for the day. A long day. The mules travelled well, but it was too long a stage, and we did not arrive at a Chinese inn in Mei Wu Chao Sz (9,928 ft.) till half past seven, long after dark. I felt just about done up”.

Day 147 December 12^th, 1923 Mei Wu Chao Sz to Run Wehr - 22½ miles

“We left Mei Wu Chao Sz about 8 a.m. and after crossing a small hill or two entered a valley with a stream which flowed past a lamasery called Ka Chia Gomba. Here they stayed at a nice clean inn at the Chinese village for lunch.  The door had 2 large texts of scripture on it and I asked if the landlord was a Christian, he said "No", but a missionary had been through and given him the text sheets which he had pasted up.  After lunch we followed the Kai Chia River down past another lamasery on the left bank, then up a narrow valley and travelled another 5 miles to Run Wehr (8,875 ft.)”.

“I was feeling very unwell, upset inside, and getting to this inn I had a bed fixed up and turned in. I found I had a temp, of 101^o, so I took a dose of castor oil and hoped for the best.  I had a very restless night, but felt better in the morning - so decided to push on to Labrang”.

Day 148 December 13^th, 1923                 Run Wehr to Labrang

From Run Wehr the road ascended a valley, and then crossed a pass, Tei Mei Shan (11,430 ft.).  It then descended to the Tao Ho river and they then followed this up to Labrang (9,150 ft.).

“The Alliance have a Fû (zhèngfǔ) Yûn Fáng (this translates as a Government permitted room) in the village by Labrang, with Mr. and Mrs. Sandeman in charge. Mr. Sandeman was away, but Mrs. Sandeman had no-one staying with her, and so they took me in and gave me a room”.

“They were most kind. I was very glad to be under a Mission roof as although much better I still felt rather rotten. We arrived in so late that we must visit the monastery tomorrow”.

“The missionaries here are very friendly with the Yabsung – the father of the Chief living Buddha - who acts as Regent for his son, and is really the head of the place. I am sending my cards in early tomorrow and asking to be shown round.”

Day 149 December 14^th, 1923                     Labrang

“I sent in my cards before 9 a.m. and by 10 o'clock a lama arrived from the Yabsung with orders to show us round. The ladies asked if they might go too and that was readily granted. So we started out with a party, consisting of the lama, and our messenger, the ladies, my two boys and myself”.

“The mission house is in a Chinese village which is about ¾ of a mile from the lamasery. - On the way we passed through the open-air Muslim market where flour and other provisions are sold”.

Figure 28 The market place outside the Labrang lamasery

HGT wrote in his journal:

“I took two snapshots and was nearly mobbed in a friendly way by people who wanted to see the foreigner and his camera. We were then followed by a big crowd of people - as we entered the streets in the lamasery”.

“When GP had visited Labrang over ten years before it had been impossible to gain access to any of the buildings, but on this occasion the father of the living Buddha, who was acting as regent, received me quite graciously, and sent one of the under lamas to take me through the lamasery”.

“This lamasery has 3 Chortens, 2 white and one with a gold cap - numbers of people were making a circuit of the 1st Chorten”.

“The 1st building we visited was the Doctors' hall. - A building decorated in red lacquer and other colours in which were laid out the trumpets, cymbals, butter lamp cups and other things used on special occasions”.

“I thought it was a kind of saleroom and tried to buy a trumpet but the guide told me that, not being lamas, we could not buy anything. Then we passed to the Chanting Hall - with its huge bronze cauldron and brass bound ewers used on great feast days. The chanting hall has rows of columns supporting the roofs and placed crosswise were mats or cushions on which the lamas sit tailor fashion while chanting the sacred books. There is room for 700 - 800 lamas. There is a special seat for the chief living Buddha, at present a child”.

“Along one side of this hall is a row of images, with butter lamps burning in front of each one, cups for wine, and with rows of white pyramids of snow balls which the guide informed them lasted about a week or 10 days and then were renewed. The pillars of the hall are red lacquered and light finds its way in only through the fanlight windows - the ceiling was panelled with Chinese embroideries”.

“From the Chanting Hall we went to another building up several flights of stairs to a building with an open-air veranda where a fine view was obtained over the monastery buildings”.

“Opening on to the veranda were great gilded doors, and on each side rows of prayer wheels mounted in brass”.

“After some difficulty we managed to get a side door opened and were admitted to the special place set aside for the Chawa chapa (or Zhepa) to recite his prayers and sacred books. A great image in the centre with a smaller one above - both gilt with butter lamps in front and festoons of paper ribbons. A special red lacquer table for offerings. numerous ornamental umbrellas hanging from the roof made of rich embroidery made a very wonderful sight. I had taken a flashlight picture of one of the alcoves, but the old lama did not like it, and politely requested me not to use that bright light again, so I had to be content with a time exposure”.

“From this building we were conducted to the residence of the Yabsung and drank tea, while the ladies returned home. We were shown into a guest room with low red lacquer tables arranged along 3 sides of a square in the centre of the room, and with cushions or mats on the floor between the tables and the wall. After a ten-minute wait the Yabsung came in. He is a fine looking man, and wore a golden yellow wadded coat and a straw hat, after presenting my Khata (the traditional Tibetan offering scarf) and a small gift we all sat down for a chat. He was very interested to know about GP’s death, as he had been expecting his visit and was looking forward to seeing him. After further talk they took their leave (I noticed 6 clocks in the room - evidently gifts from various people”.

“Leaving the Yabsung's residence we crossed a river past the great prayer wheels which stretched along the river bank”.

“On the hillside behind the lamasery there were a number of whitewashed huts, which I was told were “cells for the little lamas who do not learn their lessons”.

“I then climbed a small hill and took a series of panoramic views of the lamasery”. Then back across the bridges and made our way back to the Mission against a biting N.E. wind.

Day 150 December 15^th, 1923                  Labrang to Tsao Ku            - 25½ miles

They left Labrang at 7.30 in the morning. It was bitterly cold.

“We followed the River down by the old mule road till 11:09 a.m. when we continued on by the Ta Ho river- steadily going down till Tsao Ku (1,779 ft.), a tiny place of only three houses, was reached".

Day 151 Sunday December 16^th, 1923 Tsao Ku to Piu Ming Kwan      - 24 Miles

“Leaving Tsao Ku at 20 to 8 we made a good journey down the valley of the Ta Ho, to where it opened out into what might almost be called a plain at Piu Ming Kwan (6,908/9 ft.).  In places the valley was very narrow and at one spot the road passed through a tunnel of rock”.

“Piu Ming Kwan is on the hillside and is marked by a brick pyramid visible for miles.  The village is a little off the road but we had promised to go there as it was the muleteers’ home and they wanted to spend the night there. It was a nice new house and very clean.  The family were very pleased to see us and I had a nice room upstairs with a Hoh pan and a warm K’ang”. 

“We are very fortunate in these muleteers who are the nicest we have had and most obliging and helpful in every way.  We have not had one word of dissatisfaction”.

Day 152 December 17^th, 1923                  Piu Ming Kwan to Ho Chow     - 17½ miles

A steady descent from up the valley brought them to Ho Chow (5,825 ft.).  The great Muslim centre. 

“On the road we passed a continuous stream of people on donkeys, mules or ponies - about half were obviously ‘Muslim’.

“At one place we saw two women raking grass.  They were wearing bright red coats and tight trousers. I was told they were Sālāzú”.

Note: The Salar people are a Turkic ethnic minority of China who largely speak the Salar language, an Oghuz language. They live mostly in the Qinghai-Gansu border region on both sides of the yellow river).

“Numerous villages are dotted all over the big valley which is thoroughly well cultivated. - The dust on the road is very trying”.

“Ho chow is a walled city reserved for Chinese, and a suburb which is almost exclusively Muslim.  The Alliance mission is represented by Mr and Mrs Schneider who are most hospitable and very surprised to hear of Gen. Pereira’s death, whom they had been expecting at any time”.

“There is a primary school with 20 pupils which seems an excellent piece of work in addition to the evangelistic and pastoral work. One of the workers is an ex-boxer and another one an ex pugilist - (evidently there is a connection).  This place had the first Telegraph office they had come across since Likiang last August and HGT sent off 2 wires - one to Yunnan and the other to Lanchow.  It made me feel back in circulation again.

"The Muslims are very strong here and are the best business men. On the South side of the city is an extensive ‘Muslim’ cemetery with some small buildings in the nature of mausolea. The big five gate street shops seemed to be well stocked with goods".

Day 153 December 18^th, 1923                  Ho Chow to Tsan Kau Wan       - 21 miles

“After a splendid night's rest, we left Ho Chow at 8.34 am.  Mrs. Schneider provided bread and muffins for the road. After 1¼ hrs. journey we crossed the Ta Ho by a bridge and began to ascend among the hills which divide the Ta ho from the Tao ho. It is a steep hill about 1,800 ft. From the top there is a wonderful view back across the City and up the Valley of the Ta ho - On the West, away to the Yellow River.

“The road now kept on the hill-top, winding round various hillsides. The hills were mostly cultivated up to the apex.  How they kept the fields moist I cannot conceive. The initial stage was 40 li to a place called So Nam Pa but we decided to push for on another 20 li - the daylight being so short, so as to make the following day only 60 li (the regular stage would be 80 li). We stayed the night in Tsan Kau Wan - a tiny place of three houses, very high up (7,699 ft.), water was very scarce, and there were 8 children in the next room to mine and very noisy!”

Day 154 December 19^th, 1923              Tsan Kau Wan to Mau Ping      - 17⅓ miles

HGT wrote in his journal:

“A very bad night - children crying and the father and mother started fighting and talking - got snatches of sleep - and glad to get on the road at 8 a.m.

“At about half past eleven we came in sight of the Tao ho and began to descend rapidly. The hills are now most remarkable. The tops being a stratum of yellow sandstone and the lower part red - evidently the Chinese think them remarkable for at one place near the Tao Ho there are two vertical towers of rock with a temple at their foot”.

“We reached the ferry over the Tao Ho at 1 o-clock but it was slow work crossing owing to the drifting ice. The ferry boat had a steel cable.  I crossed with the first loads after having same hot mien at the rest house by the ferry. It was quite good”.

“Just as we were crossing, a camel train came down to the opposite banks to cross - they are the first camels I have seen in China. They are evidently from Mongolia. They settled down to wait for the ferry boat and seemed most unconcerned.

“I went on ahead with the boy and one muleteer to this place, Mau Ping (6,132 ft.), leaving the Tibetan boy to come along with the loads. They did not get across till nearly dark and arrived in after dark - but without difficulty owing to a good moon”.

That night HGT wrote in his journal:

“Tomorrow we start very early - we have a long stage 80 li and 2 hills, to cross, but it means luncheon and letters!! and news. So, I am just off to bed. I have wired Mr. Andrew we are due in tomorrow, so perhaps he may send or come to meet us. Good night”.

Day 155 December 20^th, 1923                  Mau Ping to Lanchow               - 25 miles

“We started at 4.50 by my watch (which I had made a guess at a day or so ago). There was no moon, but it is just possible to see by starlight.  We followed a track up the valley, slowly pushing up until at about 6 a.m. daylight came, and at about 6.45 the sun rose. At one place the valley narrowed down to a passage between two cliffs of rock, only 50 feet apart. Here the stream was frozen, and had spread over the road at the cliff-sides.  As a result, the mules and men had to make their way over a sloping sheet of ice, like glass. After a stiff climb we passed the first pass - then a rapid descent, - and about 3 miles further, the second pass".

“After this we had a glorious view North over the Yellow river valley, and though Lanchow was hidden by a hill, we could see the Lanchow pagodas, which overlooked the city. We bought some hot potatoes at a wayside rest house, and later had some mien and sandwiches. Then it was steadily downhill”.

“At 1.30, I was tramping along, with the mules following, when I saw two Europeans leading their ponies coming up the rise. They were Mr. Strachan of the British American Tobacco co. (B.A.T.) and Mr. Lucinder, a Finn, who had come out to meet us. Then two miles further on, we were also met by Mr. Andrew and his little boy Merwyn and Mr. Dondah (a Parsee) the postal commissioner. They all knew GP and had all been out since about 9 a.m. so as to welcome them.  It was so exceedingly kind as we were still about two hours from the city.  After the greetings we carried on and finally arrived at Lanchow (5,200 ft). 

That evening HGT wrote in his journal:

“Mr. Dondah had given special instructions to have my letters waiting at Mr. Andrews’ home, and after a cup of tea, and a hot bath and change I just started in and had a good time. Then supper, off to bed, with a fire in my room and a bundle of letters by my bedside, which I went at steadily until I had to stop to have some sleep - only to begin again before daylight next morning.”

Day 156 December 21^st, 1923 Lanchow

“I told Mr. Andrew of my plan to stay at Lanchow until 26th, but they want me to stay until the New Year.  I agreed to stay until the 27th and then go on North West bound for Peking.  Mr. Andrew was sorry about the carts as the river is full of drifting ice and rafts are now impossible.

“If plans work right I ought to have one day's rest at Ningsha then on to Paotow and reach Peking January 29th. I expect I will need 3 days there, then Shanghai, Hongkong and Yunnan. 

I have just been with Mr .Andrew to call on the Tuchen and the Civil Governor, so this duty is done and I am glad.”

Day 157 December 22^nd, 1923             Lanchow

“Called on Mr. Goertzz (Salt jabelle) an old friend of Pereira’s who has lived here with his sister many years. Then to the hospital and saw Dr.King. C.I.M. prayer meeting in the afternoon, met numerous C.I.M. missionaries, one of whom has some connection with Mrs. Bacon of Kweilin. Now I must stop this journal and post it.”

Day 158 Sunday December 23^rd, 1923 Lanchow

“Attended morning service - about 80 or 90 men apart from school boys, about 40 - 50 women. Mr. Mann preached on the wedding feast (church very cold) afterwards called in at Mr Dondah, Postal Commissioner.  He knew Pereira in Nanning, also Clift. His wife is Yunnanese. He married her when he was P.O. at Mengtze years ago. He is a Parsee and comes from Surat near Bombay.”

Day 159 December 24^th, 1923               Lanchow Market

“Busy with developing all morning. Evening went to dinner at Mr. Dondah, and before dinner gave a brief account of the journey and Pereira's death. Almost all the foreign community were present except Dr. and Mrs. King, who had visitors. We returned to the Andrews’ about 11.30, getting the City Gate opened to get out of the City”.

Day 160 Christmas Day December 25^th, 1923                   Lanchow

“Finished developing plans and intended going on to the Service and distribution of certificates to school boys. The B.A.T. men came in with Dr. Anderson and a Russian. So I had to entertain them with coffee, etc. By the time I reached the Church the people were just coming out”.

“Had lunch with Mr. Mann and the Misses French (relations of Lord French) who had been working at Shanshi for 30 years in C.I.M. and are now moving to a new station in N.W. Kansu.  Present also was a Mrs. ....... who has been with them. The Manns have one child at home - a little girl named Connie, the others are at school.  Lunch was really a Christmas dinner, over at 3.30.  I arrived back at Mr. Findlay Andrews’ at 4.30 - and at 5.30 they had a meal (another Xmas dinner).”

Day 161 December 26th, 1923                  Lanchow

“Not feeling so well, just down and out, have decided to wait over until 28th before leaving. Wrote letters and went to bed early.”

Day 162 December 27th, 1923                  Lanchow

“Had breakfast in bed, a quiet day - finishing off packing and preparing for journey.”

Copyright © 2021 John Hague. All Rights Reserved

Special thanks to Mr Edward Pereira, great nephew of Brig. Gen. George Pereira for providing me with copies of his great uncle's journal.

References:
The Geographical Journal Vol. LXVII No. I
The Royal Geographical Society January 1926
Published by Edward Stanford 1926

Peking to Lhasa by Sir Francis Younghusband.
The Narrative of Journeys in the Chinese Empire Made by the Late George Pereira . Compiled by Sir Francis Younghusband from Notes and Diaries.
Published by Houghton Mifflin, Boston, 1926

The Illustrated London News
No 4528 Vol 168 published on 30th Jan 1926
and
No 4529 Vol 168 published on 6th Feb 1926